|
“Dr.” Andrew Bell, PhD, BBQ, NoMSG
By The Law Reviewers, M.D., Anthony LowenMcDreamy and Michael AnderMcSteamy
Downtown is filling up with some mighty fine and swank restaurants, whose “chef driven” menus (we have no idea what that means either), truffle oils, and valet parkers await your fickle taste buds. That’s because said fickle buds will be at Dr. Bell’s BBQ getting their ‘Q on, at least twice a week. See, we had another restaurant all ready to go for this month’s review, but then Dr. Bell’s came along and Pretty Woman-ed us with its Lamborghini brisket, smoked turkey polo match, and a future guest spot on Friends. We’ve heard it all before, Dallas is not a barbeque town, there’s too many corporate chains, you’re within 100 feet of me and violating the restraining order, yadda yadda yadda. But Dr. Bell’s is the real deal, and we hope the chefs driving Smoke a couple of miles away take notice, for their own sake. You heard it here first: Dr. Bell’s will be around in a year, and Smoke will be but an odor in your clothes that you can’t get out (Curse that $4 pickle plate – curse it all to Houston!).
Occupying a small storefront on Main Street (tucked in right between the Which Wich and City Tavern), Dr. Bell’s BBQ has been retrofitted nicely from the Zorba-style Greek restaurant that used to be there. Corrugated tin walls, metal tables and plastic chairs make up the ambience, which makes for a literally cold setting in these winter months. There is also no soda fountain. That about does it for the negatives.
Orders are taken at a counter as you slide your tray to the right towards the cashier. On busy days, of which there are thankfully more and more of these days since it opened last fall, "Dr." Bell himself may even take your order and guide you through the many choices.
The brisket and smoked turkey reign supreme, but Dr. Bell’s also offers an assortment of pulled pork, hot links, turkey breast, beef ribs, pork ribs, and chicken. Variety also takes the form of the different ways the meats are served, from the traditional half- or full-pound plates with one or two sides, to sliders, tacos, and salads. Sandwiches cost from $4.49 to $6.89 depending on how many sides you want and plates run from $7.89 to $11.49.
Back to the brisket and turkey. The brisket has everything you would want in the traditional Texas-style smoked version, including a nice blackened crust and just enough fat. The sauce bottles on the tables are almost forgettable because you don’t really need sauce at Dr. Bell’s (not that the sauce was bad, though – it was fine). The coupe de ville of brisket at Dr. Bell’s, however, is the spicy brisket chili ($5.79). If there was a United Nations of Food, we would make an unnoticed, unheeded decree that all chili should be made from tender chunks of brisket, simmered in some kind of thick, spicy broth, and topped with cheese and onions. Holy moley is Dr. Bell’s chili good, especially on a cold, windy day. Chili with ground mystery meat will never be the same to you again after you’ve had this brisket chili. We were also impressed by the pulled pork, which had a tangy, spicy seasoning that we dug.
As for the turkey, it was juicy and actually tasted of smoke through and through. We’ve never had turkey like it at any other place in town, even overpriced places next door to the Belmont who advertise smoke in their name (hint: we’re talking about Smoke). On a multiple-visit week to Dr. Bell’s, the smoked turkey over a salad is a nice way to diet things up.
And don't forget to save some room for dessert – the sweet potato pie ($3.39), served piping hot, was deliciously sweet and almost unbearably rich tasting. In the immortal words of Alabama (the band, not the state), it was "shut my mouth" good.
Oh, and that other restaurant? It’s Mario Sabino's, in the space formerly known as Casa Blanca. Mario Sabino does a reasonable facsimile of the cuisine down the street at Gloria’s, right down to the Salvadorian sampler plate and complimentary black bean dip, but is more restrained in atmosphere. So go to Gloria’s if you want faster service and a more boisterous crowd (Note: we're talking about the Lemmon Avenue Gloria’s, not the one on Greenville Avenue, which might as well have some Greek letters over the front door); check out Mario Sabino's if you want a more relaxed place to talk and take your time. Nice place, but it ain’t no Dr. Bell’s! Three gavels.
|
