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Carbrito, Carne and Chaos Reign at El Ranchito Caf? and Club
By Michael Anderson and Anthony Lowenberg
Gloria’s? Been there. Mia’s? Please, done that. Mi Cocina? Mi wanna break from the usual. Enter El Ranchito in Oak Cliff, which will turn your Tex-Mex world upside down, for better or for worse. You may not have heard of El Ranchito, but the Saturday night crowds prove that this is a popular place for everything from couples on dates, to large parties, to roaming bands of eight man mariachi ensembles (that’s two trumpets, people). El Ranchito’s prices are very moderate for the amount of food you get; most entrees run from $8.00 to $12.00, with the exception of the cabrito (don’t worry, we’ll get to the cabrito in a moment).
First, we’ll start with the familiar and safe. El Ranchito’s salsa is smoky, fresh and just spicy enough. The tortillas were obviously hand-made and fresh, and the corn tortillas should make the Tortilla Hall of Fame the first year that they are eligible. Pinto beans, check. Guacamole, double check. Pico de gallo, check, check, check. El Ranchito also has a wide variety of familiar Tex-Mex offerings.
For drinks, you can get a large goblet of margarita, the usual collection of domestic or imported beers, or, if you want to try something a little different, a Michelada, which is beer mixed with lemon juice and spicy tomato sauce. It’s a surprisingly refreshing and tasty accompaniment to Tex-Mex food.
Choriqueso, a frisbee-sized glob of cheese and chorizo is prepared at the table flamb?-style. It’s too bad more foods aren’t served on fire. As attorneys, we recommend that restaurants use more fire in their dining rooms. What could possibly go wrong?
Carne Tampiquena, strips of beef marinated in beer and grilled with peppers and onions, had a nice flavor of beer and spices, but the meat itself was a little chewy. Still, it was a nice break from the ordinary, and we’d order that again instead of plain old enchiladas. The chicken in mole sauce was a bit bland, but the beef chile relleno was filled with shredded beef and had the same smoky flavor as the salsa.
Now, we know what you’re thinking, how about the cabrito? Cabrito,which is Spanish for goat, is the specialty at El Ranchito. So, of course, as a service to our readers, we had to try it. At over $20, the cabrito a la parilla is by far the most expensive item on an otherwise very affordable menu, but that’s because there is more than enough for two or more people to handle. The goat is served spread across a grill and seasoned with two large jalapenos. It is so tender that it falls off the bone and it comes with plenty of those delicious tortillas, guacamole, pico de gallo and beans. It’s not like your typical fajitas, but give it a try and we bet you’ll say, “Not baaaad!” Other exotic menu items that we didn’t try include sweetbread fajitas and menudo – a spicy soup whose main ingredient is cow’s stomach (it’s Ricky Martin’s favorite!).
Desserts include an outstanding cheesecake, flan covered in chocolate and strawberry sauce that doesn’t mesh very well, and the mysteriously-named Banana Sanchez.
The atmosphere at El Ranchito is basically one big, constant fiesta. A mariachi band was playing on the stage when we arrived Saturday night, pictures of famous patrons line the wall and there might have even been a pi?ata or two hanging from the ceiling. Even if you’re dining out on the patio, like we were, you’re likely to be paid a visit by the roving mariachis before your meal is done. It’s a great place to go with a big group, although it’s best to get there early because even at 10:00 there’s a wait for tables, and parking is scarce.
To get to El Ranchito from points north of downtown, take I-35 to the 12th Street exit. Take 12th Street to Llewellyn. Turn right on Llewellyn and the restaurant will be a couple of blocks down, on the corner at Jefferson Boulevard. If you can’t find a spot in the parking lot, spaces are available on Jefferson. We give El Ranchito three gavels for its fiesta-like ambiance and interesting dishes. Tex-Mex food isn’t what stands out at El Ranchito, but the unusual items and the atmosphere make the trip worthwhile.
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